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Unread 01-10-2004, 04:55 PM   #16
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The Best Guitar Chord Encyclopedia in the World (or close to it)!!

Another tip,

In case you ever need to know how to play a certain chord, before you post a thread asking how, go here.

That's the CGR's chord resource, which is essentially a chord encyclopedia, and one of the best I've seen. Go their first before posting your threads asking how to play a certain guitar chord, because most of the chords I see posted are demonstrated there.

Chesh

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Unread 01-10-2004, 05:00 PM   #17
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Next tip... Do your homework! On what? EVERYTHING!

You want a new guitar? Do your homework before hand!
You want to upgrade? Do your homework before hand!
You want _________ (insert whatever)? Do your homework before hand!

These boards are a great place to ask questions. Doing your homework will save you a lot of grief.
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Unread 01-10-2004, 05:02 PM   #18
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I know other people may not agree with this but I would get an electronic tuner. Its a lot easier to learn when your guitar is in tune and it sounds like its supposed to!

There are those who say you shouldn't get one because you need to develop your ear and they have a point but I know my ear for when a guitar was out of tune improved a lot when I got a tuner and learnt what an in tune guitar sounded like.

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Unread 01-10-2004, 05:12 PM   #19
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Quote:
There are those who say you shouldn't get one because you need to develop your ear and they have a point but I know my ear for when a guitar was out of tune improved a lot when I got a tuner and learnt what an in tune guitar sounded like.
Yes. Although I've never used an electric tuner, they do help a lot when learning to keep a guitar in tune. I have a friend who can't tune by ear like I can. His tuner helps him stay in tune. Just one thing: Learn to tune by other methods other then the electronic tuner method. Just in case your tuner isn't available, tuning by ear is always helpful. Plus, I find tuning by ear is a lot faster. Another thing: Don't tune by harmonics. A ton of people do this, and it may sound fine, but as your ear develops, it will sound increasingly off tune.

For a technical explanation by CGR's R2D2:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Myron (R2D2)
It's flawed because we use equal temperement (which means that our octave is composed of 12 equal half steps), which doesn't quite line up with the true pythogorean ratios, which the harmonics are based on.

The *perfectly* in tune perfect 5th has the ratio of 3:2 (i.e. the ratio of the frequencies of the two notes). However, it is mathematically impossible to preserve this ratio for all notes in all keys; if you try, you wind up having some octaves and some other notes/intervals be horribly out of tune. Different tuning systems have been tried over the years (including just intonation and the mean-tone system), and equal temperment was the compromise decided upon c.1740-1780. With equal temperment, all notes are equally not-quite-in tune.

What this means is that all of our intervals (except the octave) are slightly out of tune from the ideal ratios discovered by the greeks. For example, if memory serves correctly, we tune our perfect 5ths 2% flat, and our major 3rds wind up being about 14% sharp.

However, our harmonics are still based on the pythagorean ratios (more precisely, it is likely that the pythagorean ratios are based on harmonics!). When you use a 7th fret harmonic, the a "true" perfect 5th sounds, but our modern tuning dictates that we need to tune our 5ths approx. 2% flat. While 2% is not significant when it just happens once, the problem compounds when you use it to tune the entire guitar. Assuming your low E string is in tune, you're A string will wind up being 2% off from equal temperement, your D string 4% off (i.e. 2% + 2%), your G string 6%, etc. You can see that this causes problems.

If you want to use harmonic to tune, using the 5th or 12th fret harmonics is perfectly ok (and I even recommend it), because, as I stated above, our octaves are the only interval that has retained the perfect pythagorean ratio of 2:1, and this is what the harmonic produces. In addition, I would even consider it ok to use the 7th fret harmonics once (just not successively) as Xkcer Man suggested for tuning the B string, since the problem does not compound when done once, and 2% is barely noticeable.
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Unread 01-10-2004, 07:15 PM   #20
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Excellent so far!!!! Execellent!

BTW, yeah, the key is a chromatic tuner, so that you can do alternate tunings and tune instruments other than just Guitar.

Keep them coming!!

Chesh
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Unread 01-10-2004, 07:21 PM   #21
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most notably Guitars, but that can often include Mandolins, Banjos, and many times Violins, tho Violins and the Violin family is highly specialized.
AND BASSES !
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Unread 01-10-2004, 07:26 PM   #22
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Next tip,

Get Straplocks.

Schaller has some excellent ones, along with Dunlop, Planet Waves, and several other companies.

Heck, you could even use two bolts from HD or Lowe's. That's what Zakk Wylde does.

Either way, make sure that you strap is secure and that your guitar doesn't go crashing down to the floor because of some frayed strap hole around a round, bulbus, stubby strap button that probably cost $0.02 per guitar. I'm really shocked at what they put on guitars these days that pass for strap buttons.

Here's a link to an excellent thread on this where we discuss different brands and strap conventions, including a method that I am experiementing with which has worked very well for me.

Chesh
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Last edited by CheshireCat; 01-10-2004 at 07:33 PM.
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Unread 01-10-2004, 07:28 PM   #23
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Quote:
Quote:
I said:
most notably Guitars, but that can often include Mandolins, Banjos, and many times Violins, tho Violins and the Violin family is highly specialized.

Ashleigh said:
AND BASSES !
Well, yeah, those too.



Chesh
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Unread 01-10-2004, 07:33 PM   #24
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Next tip... Regularly replace your strings! To many of us, this may seem obvious, but it makes a world of difference in your tone.
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Unread 01-10-2004, 07:40 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by rainer123
Next tip... Regularly replace your strings! To many of us, this may seem obvious, but it makes a world of difference in your tone.
How many times have you heard someone go on about how their sound and tone is really beginning to suck, and they are thinking about changing their pickups, guitar, amp, you name it, and then you ask them "well, when did you change your strings?"

"Uh, about six months ago."





Keep 'em fresh people. All the stuff about pickups, amps, tonewoods, and whatnot aside, what's really making the sound are your strings!!



Good one!

Let's keep them coming.

Chesh
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Unread 01-10-2004, 07:40 PM   #26
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Next tip... Use guitar polish to polish your guitar. Don't use anything else! (except maybe water...) It may affect your guitar's finish in strange ways...
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Unread 01-10-2004, 07:44 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by rainer123
Next tip... Use guitar polish to polish your guitar. Don't use anything else! (except maybe water...) It may affect your guitar's finish in strange ways...
At which point you can kiss your resale value goodbye!

Good one.

Chesh
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Unread 01-10-2004, 08:24 PM   #28
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Next tip... Know the difference between "sale value", "list value", and "resale value"

Sale Value- How much a store will charge for a given item. i.e. "price of buying it new".

List Value- How much a manufacturer recommends a store will charge for a given item. Most people agree that this is just a marketing ploy. A bunch of made up numbers to make the product more appealing. (Face it. It's easy to buy something that says "50% off list price!".)

Resale Value- How much someone else will pay for a used item.

Does anyone want to elaborate on the myths of "list value"?
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Unread 01-10-2004, 08:47 PM   #29
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rainer123 - If I've never told you this before, you are way, way sharp!! Razor sharp!!

I'm so glad you're a regular here. I don't know what we would do around here without you!

Reps for rainer123!!!

Chesh
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Unread 01-10-2004, 08:52 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rainer123
Next tip... Know the difference between "sale value", "list value", and "resale value"

Sale Value- How much a store will charge for a given item. i.e. "price of buying it new".

List Value- How much a manufacturer recommends a store will charge for a given item. Most people agree that this is just a marketing ploy. A bunch of made up numbers to make the product more appealing. (Face it. It's easy to buy something that says "50% off list price!".)

Resale Value- How much someone else will pay for a used item.

Does anyone want to elaborate on the myths of "list value"?
List value is over-rated. They add more money on the tag to make it more appealing and to make the music stores price look amazing.
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