[Al Webber]

Regarding the running hot comment the Peavey runs the power valves with a plate voltage of about 330V. The rated maximum for an EL84 is 300V as far as I know. This is what I meant by that. I know all valves get hot in operation.

Regarding valve changes you can feel the circuit board flexing on the Peavey when you change valves no matter how careful you are - and the amp is quite hard on valves as well so they need changing reasonably regularly. Sooner or later between the heat and the thin PCB trouble is likely and there would be a lot more labour to fix it than an equivalent amp with chassis mounted sockets. Thankfully I haven't had any trouble yet (in more than 4 years) and I hope this state of affairs lasts but I don't think its an amp you could grow old with.

Al

[Major Tom]

Originally Posted by Al Webber

Regarding the running hot comment the Peavey runs the power valves with a plate voltage of about 330V. The rated maximum for an EL84 is 300V as far as I know. This is what I meant by that. I know all valves get hot in operation.

Regarding valve changes you can feel the circuit board flexing on the Peavey when you change valves no matter how careful you are - and the amp is quite hard on valves as well so they need changing reasonably regularly. Sooner or later between the heat and the thin PCB trouble is likely and there would be a lot more labour to fix it than an equivalent amp with chassis mounted sockets. Thankfully I haven't had any trouble yet (in more than 4 years) and I hope this state of affairs lasts but I don't think its an amp you could grow old with.

Al

I believe most guitar amps do run the tubes at higher plate voltages than what the original tube specs are. I have 2 Peavey Bravos with 2 EL84's, one is around 375 the other 385. I asked Myles (Technical guy at at Groove Tubes) whether I should knock that down some, he said it should be fine. I have read that EL84's sound best in a range of like, 338 to 352v I think it was. I still might take it down to 350 or so one of these days. I think its the amount of current drawn and not the voltage level (if it is within reason)that causes them to run hot and shortens their life, which is at least somewhat dependent on the bias setting. If you don't have the amp biased when changing tubes, you might want to at least get matched tubes in a medium rating, they should be closer to the right bias on a preset biased amp. Now I have also read that EL84's aren't as sensitive to bias settings as other tubes...so, ?

I also would not rule out that the short tube life may be due to the relative quality of the tubes more than the amp.

Using the standby mode to let the tubes heat up for a minute or so will help too.

As far as the sockets - yeah anything heavy, or that can exert stress on the board is likely to at some point cause a loose solder joint. Most of the electronic items that I have repaired with this issue were either dropped, or abused, but I have seen my share of PC's that were damaged by heat over a long period of time. A cooling fan mounted in there should eliminate any heat damage.

I tend to discount issues like potential solder joint failure since I was an electronic tech for a number of years, its just not that hard to fix. Also amps in the lower price ranges seem to have this in common, and to move up to a brand that doesn't is a lot more cash...

[Al Webber]

Using the standby mode to let the tubes heat up for a minute or so will help too.

The C30 does not have a standby switch. Probably to save money in construction!

If you don't have the amp biased when changing tubes, you might want to at least get matched tubes in a medium rating, they should be closer to the right bias on a preset biased amp. Now I have also read that EL84's aren't as sensitive to bias settings as other tubes...so

The C30 is non-adjustable fixed bias - again cheaper to build. The medium rated valves is a good idea though!

I also would not rule out that the short tube life may be due to the relative quality of the tubes more than the amp.

My experience bears that out. Better valves do last longer in it.

I tend to discount issues like potential solder joint failure since I was an electronic tech for a number of years, its just not that hard to fix.

Its not hard to fix when you can get at it but on this amp its a pig to get at due to the design and will cost a lot more in labour. I've opened mine up. It looks like its designed to be as cheap to build as possible with no thought to future maintenance. I would guess that if they get a warranty return they will just pull out the entire circuit board and drop another one in its place.

Also amps in the lower price ranges seem to have this in common, and to move up to a brand that doesn't is a lot more cash...

Very true - at least in the short term. It depends on how long you are likely to want to use the amp for. In the short to medium term a budget valve amp will be a lot cheaper than a higher end amp but over the long term a higher end amp will probably be cheaper due to the fact that you can improve valve life by setting the bias correctly and that any repair bills will be a lot cheaper. The other option is to buy a cheaper amp and throw it away and get a new one if it goes wrong and you may well pay less for 2 amps than what you would pay for one high price amp. I don't think that there is any right or wrong way of doing things.

I would also say that some of the more expensive amps sound better as well. My Brunetti definitely sounds better to me than my Peavey but that's my preference and is entirely subjective. Maybe I want it to sound better because I spent more money on it!

Al