[SupaNova]

Yeah I wasn't sure where to stick this either, so I'm just gonna abuse my mod powers a bit If anyone feels inclined to send this elsewhere, go for it.


Anyway, as many of you probably already know, I've got vintage soprano uke that I'm hoping to get back into playing condition. This thing is old school; friction tuners and everything. Which is also my problem. A couple of the tuners continually slip out of place and pull the string down. I've been told that all I need to do is pop the pegs out, put a tiny drop of lubricating oil where the screw is suppose to turn, then stick a washer in between the headstock and the tuner and, supposedly, it should be working fine then. Using lubricating oil to help make something hold tighter sounds backwards to me, but it's the best answer I've been given so far. My first problem is that I can't find a small bottle of lube oil anywhere. Any idea where I could grab something like that? Would an automotive store have it? We don't have any in the area, otherwise I would have checked already, but it'd be the worth the trip if I could finally get on with this project.

My second issue is that bottom of the uke top pulled away when I initially restrung it and put pressure back on the bridge. The crack is hardly noticable and isn't causing any real problems as far as I can tell, but I'd like to reglue it anyway. I've been told that Titebond wood glue is what I should use, so I am hoping somebody who's had experience with it could confirm or deny that suggestion.

I'll post some pictures in a little while, as I'm not sure I am describing things as well as I would like to.

Thanks.

[SupaNova]

Alright, hopefully these will help...

[Rainer.]

You want something like this for the pegs:

Amazon.com: The Original Peg Drops by Ardsley: Musical Instruments

Amazon.com: The String Centre Peg Drops: Musical Instruments

The problem is if they don't fit perfectly, there are going to be some places where the peg makes contact with the hole to provide friction, but some places where it doesn't. No contact means no friction. With the lubricant, the liquid environment ensures complete contact all around the peg, providing maximum friction, and a much smoother turning peg.

[Rainer.]

You can also try this stuff...
Amazon.com: PLAYERS PEG GRIP VI-PG: Musical Instruments

[Rainer.]

As for the top, you can use a bit of wood glue, I've heard that Titebond is a good one to use, too. Make sure to clamp it and not use too much excess.

[BillSPrestonEsq]

Originally Posted by Rainer.

As for the top, you can use a bit of wood glue, I've heard that Titebond is a good one to use, too. Make sure to clamp it and not use too much excess.

Titebond I or epoxy would be good choices for the top separation. You will also need a credit card like implement to get good coverage inside IMO

[SupaNova]

Originally Posted by Rainer

The problem is if they don't fit perfectly, there are going to be some places where the peg makes contact with the hole to provide friction, but some places where it doesn't. No contact means no friction. With the lubricant, the liquid environment ensures complete contact all around the peg, providing maximum friction, and a much smoother turning peg.

You just explained the science behind this better than half a dozen people who eat, drink and breathe nylon strings and koa did. Thank you, that makes perfect sense now.

I didn't realize they had lube oil like that specifically for stringed instruments. The kid I'm fixing up this uke for and her sister both play violin, so I'm going to check with them tonight and see if they might happen to already have a bottle lying around somewhere. If not, one of those Amazon links should do fine. Thanks again Jon.

Originally Posted by BSPE

Titebond I or epoxy would be good choices for the top separation. You will also need a credit card like implement to get good coverage inside IMO

Could you explain what you mean by having good coverage inside? It's not clicking in my head at the moment.

[BillSPrestonEsq]

Originally Posted by SupaNova

Could you explain what you mean by having good coverage inside? It's not clicking in my head at the moment.

STEWMAC.COM : Kerfed Guitar Linings

That will most likely (or something like it) be on the inside of the bent wood sides to give the top a surface to glue down to. I am not sure if ukes have end blocks, but I would guess most do. So you generally have about a 1/4-3/4 of an inch of area to glue down to get a solid connection for strength. You don't want to just squirt glue in or it won't cover the kerfing as nicely as it could. squirt your glue in. (I use a syringe, actually for that) Then take a business card and smear it back in as needed and make sure you have enough glue in and clamp it.

Should fix fairly easily.

[SupaNova]

Originally Posted by BSPE

That will most likely (or something like it) be on the inside of the bent wood sides to give the top a surface to glue down to. I am not sure if ukes have end blocks, but I would guess most do. So you generally have about a 1/4-3/4 of an inch of area to glue down to get a solid connection for strength. You don't want to just squirt glue in or it won't cover the kerfing as nicely as it could. squirt your glue in. (I use a syringe, actually for that) Then take a business card and smear it back in as needed and make sure you have enough glue in and clamp it.

Right, thanks for clarifying. I don't know why your phrasing threw me off so badly Smart idea with the syringe, I wonder if we have any old ones around here...

Most of the ukes being made nowadays have that inner binding and end blocks in them. I have a feeling this particular model probably doesn't. It dates back to at least the 60s, maybe even the 50s- back when the uke was still chiefly regarded on in mainland states as a novelty item. Quality is solid, but we're certainly not talking about high-end instrument construction here.

I just ordered the drops and a bottle of Titebond, so with any luck this project should be finished in a week or two. Thanks again gents.