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Unread 07-12-2010, 10:11 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by josey wales View Post
yeah, my ibanez is made in indonesia and it's neck is awesome, i had to do a truss rod adjustment when going up to a higher gauge string, and it turned out great.

so with that being said i will probably leave it for now and not worry until something goes wrong. anyway i was more after electronics than anything, because i had that body it's MIM alder i think, so it's good the body off that guitar the starcaster was absolute crap-zilla.
ftr some of what is coming out of china these days rivals what was coming out of mexico 15 years ago.

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Unread 07-12-2010, 10:16 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by BillSPrestonEsq View Post
ftr some of what is coming out of china these days rivals what was coming out of mexico 15 years ago.
TRUE THAT, i was talking to a guy at guitar center yesterday that's been playing guitars forever, and has a lot of them, and he was telling me recent chinese guitars are really good, really nice, and actually do what they are supposed to, and the ones he had from 15 or more years ago, he said were junk.... i guess it's all a part of outsourcing, the chinese have had practice making guitars now, and have had all the negative feedback, and are fixing the problems, and thats good.
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Unread 07-12-2010, 10:21 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by josey wales View Post
true and i mean thats what i was going for is playability, and as long as it stays tuned and doesn't warp... i've always wanted a fender strat for 1. the feel, and 2. the mystique surrounding them, since most of my favorite guitar players use strats... so what i'll probably do is just sand off the current logo and get an actual strat logo the newer ones, and put it on there, then i can pretend
Dude, I'd sand the logo off and sign your name on it. It's more your guitar than a Fender, which is cooler anyways.


Also, I have a Rogue... To give you a bit of history... the logo says "Rogue by Squier"... a Squier says "Squier by Fender". It's made in Indonesia with a plywood body. But that neck is one of the best feeling necks I've ever played with. And I own a Carvin.

They only made the Rogue guitars for a few years, I think they still make the bass. I think that Rogue was eventually replaced by Starcaster.

Anyways, it's a 80 dollar strat copy that I play on a regular basis along with my Ibanez Artcore and my home made guitar (the one with the Carvin neck). It's as integral to my sound as either of the other two now.

The other guitarist in my band has a parts caster made from a Starcaster and a Squier and that thing sounds sick. He also plays it along side his home made guitar (warmoth neck on it) and we use them frequently.

Don't discount your guitar because it's not a name brand. If you like it, then that's all that matters.
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Unread 07-12-2010, 10:40 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ax View Post
Dude, I'd sand the logo off and sign your name on it. It's more your guitar than a Fender, which is cooler anyways.


Also, I have a Rogue... To give you a bit of history... the logo says "Rogue by Squier"... a Squier says "Squier by Fender". It's made in Indonesia with a plywood body. But that neck is one of the best feeling necks I've ever played with. And I own a Carvin.

They only made the Rogue guitars for a few years, I think they still make the bass. I think that Rogue was eventually replaced by Starcaster.

Anyways, it's a 80 dollar strat copy that I play on a regular basis along with my Ibanez Artcore and my home made guitar (the one with the Carvin neck). It's as integral to my sound as either of the other two now.

The other guitarist in my band has a parts caster made from a Starcaster and a Squier and that thing sounds sick. He also plays it along side his home made guitar (warmoth neck on it) and we use them frequently.

Don't discount your guitar because it's not a name brand. If you like it, then that's all that matters.
right on man, yeah exactly, i like it so i'll just leave it alone... it does sound real good, and it feels great, honestly i did want a fender strat, part for the name and part for the quality, but now i'm looking at this thing going, wow it's good quality and sounds great, who cares...

and i should get a decal made with my name or something and put that on, it would be cool..

or maybe i'll wait till i get a name for it, like my ibanez is named roxanne, and i'll decal that and put it on the headstock and leave the little fender logo or something, that would be cool.
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Unread 07-13-2010, 09:34 AM   #20
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Funny how we'll fight to spend way more money on something we don't like as much as the cheaper version just because it costs more. It's like brand name clothing where people pay $80 for a $5 shirt just because it has a little logo on it. Advertising works scarily well.
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Unread 07-13-2010, 09:42 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazymoose View Post
Funny how we'll fight to spend way more money on something we don't like as much as the cheaper version just because it costs more. It's like brand name clothing where people pay $80 for a $5 shirt just because it has a little logo on it. Advertising works scarily well.
lol, yeah totally... i don't care anymore honestly, i just wanted a strat style guitar, because i like the sound and the feel, so i was goinf full on fender, but if it works, it works,... if not i'll start over, like i'm doing with the current bridge..... lol,


i'll call it the mulletcaster or something.
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Unread 07-14-2010, 07:48 AM   #22
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ok, so i encountered a problem. i got a trem arm for my guitar, then it snapped off in the hole, i tried everything to get it out, drilling, hammering, nothing, but stupid me i left it in the guitar when i was doing this, but no worries, theres no damage except a chip on the finish.... i got a new bridge and it's good, heres pics.

ok, heres the old bridge



if you look closely at these 2 pics you can see the damage i cause to it, first the trem arm hole has a metal in it with drill holes, second you can see that the bridge is physically bent.





now this is the damage that the bridge did to the guitar itself.





heres the new bridge





and hers the new bridge installed in the guitar...
i think it looks better than the old one anyway





on a similar but seperate note i am having the worst time ever doing a set up, as in adjust the action, adjust the intonation, longer shorter string, blah blah.... this is my first time doing this so this is probably why, and i found some random source online, but if someone has a better resource for that it would be great, or knows how to do it and can give me pointers, for whatever reason i'm thinking bill or roscoe......
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Last edited by thesteve; 07-14-2010 at 09:10 AM.
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Unread 07-14-2010, 09:04 AM   #23
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Bill would probally give better advice than me.
I like my action very low. I first lower the saddles to where I think they should be then tune the guitar. If it plays ok without buzzing, etc. then I start on the intonation.
For intonation I first make sure the guitar is in tune. Then I hold down the strings at the 12th fret and check to see if it's in tune. If not then I adjust the intonation screws until it is in tune. I do it one string at a time. I've heard of others that put the capo on the 12th fret and tune all at the same time. I guess it makes no difference. Just preference.
Once everything is adjusted check the tuning again. If there is buzzing the the saddles may have to be raised again or you may have to adjust the trus rod to take bow out of the neck.

That's it in a nutshell. Hope it helps.
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Unread 07-14-2010, 09:09 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roscoestring View Post
Bill would probally give better advice than me.
I like my action very low. I first lower the saddles to where I think they should be then tune the guitar. If it plays ok without buzzing, etc. then I start on the intonation.
For intonation I first make sure the guitar is in tune. Then I hold down the strings at the 12th fret and check to see if it's in tune. If not then I adjust the intonation screws until it is in tune. I do it one string at a time. I've heard of others that put the capo on the 12th fret and tune all at the same time. I guess it makes no difference. Just preference.
Once everything is adjusted check the tuning again. If there is buzzing the the saddles may have to be raised again or you may have to adjust the trus rod to take bow out of the neck.

That's it in a nutshell. Hope it helps.
yeah i like my action way low too, and the way i got from online is tune the string, then hold it at the 12th harmonic making sure thats in tune, then fret the string at 12 adjusting the intonation screw till the harmonic and fret at 12 are exactly the same, i think i got it down, it's pretty tricky to get the hang of.....

for adjusting the truss rod, whats the best way to determine if i even need to, l8ike if the neck is bowed, cause i look down it and it's straight, i fret a string at 1 and 12, and the string is the same distance from all of the frets... so idk..
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Unread 07-14-2010, 10:14 AM   #25
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You need to determine if it's bowed by fretting at the 21st fret, and then looking at the distance between the strings and the 12th fret. Note that you do need a little bit of bow in the neck for your action to be buzz-free. I forget the exact numbers for the bow you want in the neck, though.
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Unread 07-14-2010, 10:26 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Rainer. View Post
You need to determine if it's bowed by fretting at the 21st fret, and then looking at the distance between the strings and the 12th fret. Note that you do need a little bit of bow in the neck for your action to be buzz-free. I forget the exact numbers for the bow you want in the neck, though.
i know that you need a little, but i read that you can simply look down the neck from the headstock down, and you can see if theres to much, is this true?
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Unread 07-14-2010, 10:33 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by josey wales View Post
i know that you need a little, but i read that you can simply look down the neck from the headstock down, and you can see if theres to much, is this true?
Well, you can sort of see it, but there's no way to actually measure it looking like that.

Again, Hold down the strings at the 21st fret. Your strings will be straight, and the neck will be slightly bowed, so there will be some clearance you can measure at the 12th fret. A good gauge is to imagine whether you can stick a low E string through that clearance you get. You should have just enough room to do that.
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Unread 07-14-2010, 11:03 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by Rainer. View Post
Well, you can sort of see it, but there's no way to actually measure it looking like that.

Again, Hold down the strings at the 21st fret. Your strings will be straight, and the neck will be slightly bowed, so there will be some clearance you can measure at the 12th fret. A good gauge is to imagine whether you can stick a low E string through that clearance you get. You should have just enough room to do that.
ok, cool, i'll check that out later today, thanks jon...
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Unread 07-16-2010, 01:11 PM   #29
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by the way it took me some time, but i was able to get it set up all the way, i think i need to do some more adjusting on the low E string, but everything else when i tune the string and fret 12 it's in tune too, so i think i figured it out....

now i just need new tuning machines.
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Unread 08-13-2010, 07:34 AM   #30
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YAY the guitar is staying together, and doing good thing. i got a set of strap locks, and hooked them all up and stuff, but the other day i was in my friends garage and i was hooking them up when i didn't click the lock in, and wham headstock meet concrete.... i was like but then i checked it, and all that happened was it was a little out of tune, i think it's ok..
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