Peavey Valve King 1x12

Bro Shane · 07-19-2009, 12:05 AM

I bought one the other day. I have spent the last three days wringing it out. My first impression is pretty good. I do know how they make price point, though. The speaker is a piece of junk. It will be gone soon, but I haven't made up my mind what to replace it with yet.

It's pretty light for a 1x12 50 watt combo. It's open back, and weighs less than the Marshall Haze 1x12 combo. The cleans are pretty good and it really likes OD pedals. I've run an OCD, Trower signature OD, Double Muff, and a Boss SD-1 in front of it. All did well.

It seems to be built well, sturdy. Nothing looks like it will break, but time will tell. Gonna replace the speaker for sure and see what happens. Tubes might be after that.

It should come with the foot switch, but no.

I have this crazy idea of running them both A/B. The Peavey for cleans and the Marshall for the dirt.

**thesteve** · 07-19-2009, 12:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bro Shane

I bought one the other day. I have spent the last three days wringing it out. My first impression is pretty good. I do know how they make price point, though. The speaker is a piece of junk.

It's also made in China...just saying.

Bro Shane · 07-19-2009, 07:14 PM

Yeah, I remember when Peavey's stuff was all US made. It's not a bad amp, though. I'm going to put a Hellatone 60 in it and see what happens.

I don't have a single guitar or amp made in America. If Fender would stop putting that horrible bridge on the American Standards I might buy one.

**thesteve** · 07-19-2009, 07:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bro Shane

I don't have a single guitar or amp made in America. If Fender would stop putting that horrible bridge on the American Standards I might buy one.

What horrible bridge? The 2008s have a different bridge than the 2009.

Bro Shane · 07-19-2009, 07:43 PM

I like the older six screw bridges.

**thesteve** · 07-19-2009, 08:01 PM

Ah...yeah...the HWY 1s have the six-screw bridge, but not the Am Std. I've never played one of the two-point bridges, but I've always heard they were much more versatile than the older style.

Bro Shane · 07-19-2009, 10:38 PM

Only if you use the bar, which I don't.

***BillSPrestonEsq*** · 07-19-2009, 10:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bro Shane

Only if you use the bar, which I don't.

Then why not go hardtail?

Bro Shane · 07-20-2009, 03:17 PM

It doesn't sound the same to me. The mass of the trem block makes a difference in tone and sustain. It may not be enough to be important, or even noticeable, to others but I prefer the sound of the normal bridge. It also allows for adjusting the action (by being able to move the bridge) and string tension that a hardtail doesn't.

**thesteve** · 07-20-2009, 03:40 PM

Wow...even getting further off topic, but what about doing a pseudo-hard tail by adding additional springs and tightening the trem claw? Or is the issue with the two-point that this is harder to set up?

Bro Shane · 07-20-2009, 04:22 PM

When adding the extra springs and tightening the trem claw the two point bridge can be pulled back, depending on how high it is set, to the point that it is not stable and slips from the groves on the pivot screws. Often I have had to lower the action to the point that slide playing becomes impossible because the bridge was at such an odd angle.

Major Tom · 07-20-2009, 04:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bro Shane

When adding the extra springs and tightening the trem claw the two point bridge can be pulled back, depending on how high it is set, to the point that it is not stable and slips from the groves on the pivot screws. Often I have had to lower the action to the point that slide playing becomes impossible because the bridge was at such an odd angle.

The 2 point trems are superior IMO. All you have to do is put a little "block" in between the front of the cavity and the inertia block, like a short piece of 2 popsicle sticks stacked and glued together; I use a piece of scrap wood about 1/2"x 1"x3/16" or so thick. I silicone them in so it can be removed without a trace later, if the new owner would desire. After that, it is a down-only trem, just like the vintage 6 screw, except there is less friction, and you can lower the pitch further. Or you can leave the trem arm out and use the axe like it was a fixed bridge.

***BillSPrestonEsq*** · 07-20-2009, 04:49 PM

You know, I hate strat trems...

And not real fond of strat bridge pickups...

I have to face it, teles are just vastly superior.

Of course YMMV

Bro Shane · 07-20-2009, 05:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Major Tom

The 2 point trems are superior IMO. All you have to do is put a little "block" in between the front of the cavity and the inertia block, like a short piece of 2 popsicle sticks stacked and glued together; I use a piece of scrap wood about 1/2"x 1"x3/16" or so thick. I silicone them in so it can be removed without a trace later, if the new owner would desire. After that, it is a down-only trem, just like the vintage 6 screw, except there is less friction, and you can lower the pitch further. Or you can leave the trem arm out and use the axe like it was a fixed bridge.

Which is a wonderful thing if the action and string tension is where you want it to be when done. It's just for the way I play and the way I like my setup, it's impossible to reach that point on a two point trem.

Bill, I like Teles too, but you are obviously in need or prayer

Major Tom · 07-20-2009, 05:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thesteve

Wow...even getting further off topic, but what about doing a pseudo-hard tail by adding additional springs and tightening the trem claw? Or is the issue with the two-point that this is harder to set up?

The issue with the 2-screw is that the body is routed for floating operation, the 6-screws have a smaller opening designed for down-only. But yeah, adding the block I mentioned above will work well for your suggestion.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bro Shane

Which is a wonderful thing if the action and string tension is where you want it to be when done. It's just for the way I play and the way I like my setup, it's impossible to reach that point on a two point trem.....

Why would that prevent one from adjusting string height? Actually its easier on the 2 pointer - once you have the individual saddles set for the radius, you have the option to raise or lower the bridge height a bit with the 2 screws instead of having to adjust all 12 screws on the saddles. String tension is determined by the pitch....

It doesn't matter if you don't use a trem, but my point was that you can set up a 2 pointer to function exactly like the vintage type - non floating, down-only.