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Unread 03-13-2007, 09:18 PM   #76
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Originally Posted by AXguitar View Post
I don't wanna pay any extra... plus, I think the maple will look better...

-Edit-
Back to electronics!

I may go with an HSS or an HSH I haven't quite decided yet... I have an HH (Artcore) and an HSS (a crappy one that I'm gonna fix up when I get the urge to...)... I may go for HSH...

Anyways, I'm still going with my on/off switches on each pickup, and I may still have a on off for the whole guitar....
I was thinking... Purpleheart is fairly bright IIRC, steering more towards HBs might be ideal. I like the switch idea. If I wasn't sure that was one thing warmoth wouldn't do, I would do it. (I also don't want to drill a finished body)

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Unread 03-13-2007, 09:40 PM   #77
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Now I have seen before, where they had a 3 way selector for the bridge and middle pickups and an on/off for the neck...

Also, I think Gold hardware would look absolutely beautiful with the purpleheart...
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Unread 03-13-2007, 09:43 PM   #78
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Originally Posted by AXguitar View Post
Now I have seen before, where they had a 3 way selector for the bridge and middle pickups and an on/off for the neck...

Also, I think Gold hardware would look absolutely beautiful with the purpleheart...
I agree.
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Unread 03-13-2007, 09:45 PM   #79
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I'm gonna have to wait until i get my next paycheck, but when I do, I'm gonna order the neck and the purpleheart... I've found that I can get Purpleheart relatively cheap from some online suppliers...
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Current Rig:
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Pedals: Dunlop Crybaby -> SBN Soviet Power Booster -> SBN Modded Ibanez TS7 Tube Screamer -> SBN Discombobulamodulator -> Modded EHX Nano Small Clone -> Korg Pitchblack Tuner.
Amps: EVH 5150 III 50 Watt, Vox Night Train 15 Watt
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Unread 03-14-2007, 01:08 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AXguitar View Post
I'm gonna have to wait until i get my next paycheck, but when I do, I'm gonna order the neck and the purpleheart... I've found that I can get Purpleheart relatively cheap from some online suppliers...
I don't know woods very well, but there's a phrase that may apply here: You get what you pay for. This isn't always true, but be careful about cheap sources, because the quality may not be nearly as good as the more expensive stuff.

Then again, as said, I'm not an expert on wood, so I could be wrong.
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Unread 03-14-2007, 01:25 PM   #81
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I don't know woods very well, but there's a phrase that may apply here: You get what you pay for. This isn't always true, but be careful about cheap sources, because the quality may not be nearly as good as the more expensive stuff.

Then again, as said, I'm not an expert on wood, so I could be wrong.
purpleheart is, well... a sort of anomaly. It has a good tone but it isn't too expensive. It is hard, and apparently CNC's don't like it, and it requires aging in UV to oxidize pretty. None of those things matter much to a guitar builder, but no massive companies use it right now. (Alembic, & Warmoth do, and several companies use accents of purplrheart, but very few use strictly purpleheart.)
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Unread 03-14-2007, 01:27 PM   #82
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Originally Posted by BillSPrestonEsq View Post
purpleheart is, well... a sort of anomaly. It has a good tone but it isn't too expensive. It is hard, and apparently CNC's don't like it, and it requires aging in UV to oxidize pretty. None of those things matter much to a guitar builder, but no massive companies use it right now. (Alembic, & Warmoth do, and several companies use accents of purplrheart, but very few use strictly purpleheart.)
Hmmm, that's interesting. I need to brush up on woods . Thanks for the nugget of info!
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Unread 03-14-2007, 05:47 PM   #83
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Hmmm, that's interesting. I need to brush up on woods . Thanks for the nugget of info!
It's also quite beautiful... take a look at the guitar on the previous page that Bill posted...
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Current Rig:
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Unread 03-14-2007, 05:50 PM   #84
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I've found that I can get Purpleheart relatively cheap from some online suppliers...
Got a link? I'm thinking about building a guitar, and I need somewhere to look at wood for the body.
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Unread 03-14-2007, 05:59 PM   #85
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It's best if you find a place somewhere close to you... try Woodfinder's website to find some close to you...
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Current Rig:
Guitars: The NightShade, Fender Big Block Toronado, Fender Marauder, Fender Strat, Rogue ST-4
Pedals: Dunlop Crybaby -> SBN Soviet Power Booster -> SBN Modded Ibanez TS7 Tube Screamer -> SBN Discombobulamodulator -> Modded EHX Nano Small Clone -> Korg Pitchblack Tuner.
Amps: EVH 5150 III 50 Watt, Vox Night Train 15 Watt
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Unread 03-14-2007, 06:07 PM   #86
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It's best if you find a place somewhere close to you... try Woodfinder's website to find some close to you...
Ok, thanks.
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Unread 03-17-2007, 05:25 PM   #87
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Boy, been away for a bit. Oh, the joys of a new job, especially one where I get to build and set-up my office.

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Mostly the Project Guitar forums.
Ah, of course. That makes sense. Usually you'll have a mix of orthodox and unorthodox methods and approaches, which isn't a bad thing, but it definitely falls under the category of "measure thrice (and then doublecheck on top of that), and then cut once".

Incidentally, I've seen people recommend oldschool approachs such as drawknives and spokeshaves, all the way to one hobbiest who created a sculpted, highly stylized bass body using nothing but a handheld beltsander (and, no, he did not precut anything, or do any preliminary carving, apart from the silhouette). That was definitely an unorthodox approach, but it did produce interesting results. It looked rather chic, actually.

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... Umm... I do have the sense to cut it into some sort of shape before I sand it and then attach the fretboard later...
Oh, do you now? Really? And we are supposed to know that how? Dude, you have a post count of 3K. You've been around a bit. I'm sure you've seen your own share of horror stories of someone who didn't know all that they should of and then did serious damage to their guitar or themself? For instance, do you know how many times we've stopped kids from giving their truss rod some 10 turns because they were trying to lower the action coming off the nut, or they wanted the strings closer to the bridge pickup!?!

Of course, even with a post count of 3K, we can't very well assume that you are on top of your game either, because I've seen other members here who have post counts of that much or even more, and some 80% of it was gained thru being active in the CPF, so it pays not to make assumptions, especially when the topic of conversation is toxic materials that can easily kill. Call us provencial.

Besides, as far as the original question, why would you necessarily shape the back before attaching the fretboard? Granted, it could go either way, but it is much easier to attach the fretboard while it is still square shape and easier to clamp, than when it is round and trickier to clamp.

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Eh, yeah, give me some credit. I know what a lathe is. I'm a carpenter and a luthier, and the son of a long line of builders. I've known what a lathe is before you were even born.

I was just incredulous as to why you would even suggest a lathe, consider that is even more unorthodox than using a handheld beltsander for the entirety of the project. I wasn't exactly sure what you were trying to accomplish with that, unless you were going for a fretboard radius of 2" and a severe boatneck backshape.

Of course, that said, a lathe does offer some interesting possibilities. If coupled with a dummy blank, and the axis or pivot point was located right about where the fretboard and nut would attach to the neck, then that would be an interesting way of roughing in the shape quickly. It's a thought. Also, in theory, the dummy blank doesn't have to be a dummy . . . you could do two necks at once. Hmmmmmm . . .

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Curfoil? If these exist then I probably have access to one... but according to google, they don't... Sure you got the spelling right?
I might have misspoke, tho I think that is something of an oldschool term (perhaps british). The proper term these days is "surform". They go for something like $10 at Lowe's (tho I've seen them go up to $12 or $13) and it's one of the best tools for shaping a neck with precision, and it rips the wood off quickly and cleanly without whipping up clouds of sawdust.

If you have access to one, great, but at $10-$13, I'd suggest just buying a new one, since you'll want it supersharp and fresh for cutting the amount of hardwood you'll be ripping thru.

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You know, I wasn't being cocky, I was just telling you what I wanted to do, but since I get that same feeling from you (and after reading that little tidbit I'm sure that's the way you intended it to sound) then you might have picked up a bit of cockiness in this paragraph.
Well, probably more precocious than cocky, but, pressing on . . .

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Think room with big fans sucking air out of one side and blowing it in on the other... It's temperature/moisture/etc. controlled...

Give me a little more credit than that.
Right, and exactly how many kids 19 years of age actually have access to that? Since you were talking about sanding down copious amounts of a toxic wood, we really couldn't assume a scenario like that.

I mean, understand, you come in here and without teeing up the fact that you have experience with woodworking or access to these particular tools or methods for doing that kind of high end work, you suggest taking a 1"x4"x3' plank of highly toxic wood and beltsanding it into a neck. The amount of resultant rosewood dust would kill a roomful of people, let alone you, and you make no mention of dustmasks or huge, well-ventilated rooms with big fans cranking at full blast.

Well, given that, do you think it would be responsible for us to just assume you knew what you were doing and not strongly advise against that course of action, or, ftm, attribute to you various expertise that you may very well have not possessed?

For that reason more than any other, we tend to err on the side of caution on these matters.

Chesh
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Unread 03-17-2007, 05:49 PM   #88
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Of course, even with a post count of 3K, we can't very well assume that you are on top of your game either, because I've seen other members here who have post counts of that much or even more, and some 80% of it was gained thru being active in the CPF, so it pays not to make assumptions, especially when the topic of conversation is toxic materials that can easily kill. Call us provencial.
Posts in CPF don't count towards post counts.
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Unread 03-17-2007, 06:36 PM   #89
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Posts in CPF don't count towards post counts.
That's what I originally thought, but then I'd heard other explanations. I do believe that at one time when I posted in the CPF (one of few rare occasions . . . got a lot of dropped jaws on that one) my post count did increase by one.

Either way, the general point still stands. Posts in the Cheap Post Forum may not count, but cheap posts in other forums can. (Not that anyone here would post cheaply, but you get the idea.)
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Unread 03-17-2007, 06:43 PM   #90
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That's what I originally thought, but then I'd heard other explanations. I do believe that at one time when I posted in the CPF (one of few rare occasions . . . got a lot of dropped jaws on that one) my post count did increase by one.

Either way, the general point still stands. Posts in the Cheap Post Forum may not count, but cheap posts in other forums can. (Not that anyone here would post cheaply, but you get the idea.)
Definitely. However, I hijacked this thread. We should get back on subject.
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