I would solder the wires at the LPad, but you could buy some crimp on connectors - the slide on spade lug type used for speakers, 3/16"wide, and put those on the ends of the wires. You would first have to flatten the lugs on the LPad, they are curved. They are also pretty flimsy, so be careful sliding them on. You can buy those I think at radio Shack or auto parts stores.
Here's how to connect, the 3 lugs are marked (embossed into the ceramic casing) 1, 2, and 3:
Lug 1) gets two wires, one to the ground side of the amp's speaker out, and one to the speaker. Put it on the terminal of the speaker that does not have the dot (usually a red dot)
Lug 2) connect to the terminal of the speaker that has the dot
Lug 3) connect to the amp's speaker out, the non-grounded side. If it has a 1/4"
It doesn't matter if you reverse the wires on the speaker, it only matters if you hook up an external speaker - you want them on correctly so both speakers will be in phase.
Connectivity - I attached a pic below of one mounted on a bracket with a 1/4" phone jack, and a 2 foot cable with 1/4" phone plug. The plug of the cable goes into the amp's speaker out jack, the plug of the amp's existing speaker cable plugs into the attenuator's jack.
Same as above;
Lug 1) 2 wires, 1 to the ground of the cable/plug. 1 to the ground terminal of the jack
Lug 2) the tip connection of the cable/plug
Lug 3) the tip connection of the jack
Plug the new attenuator's cable/jack into the internal speaker out of the amp (on my HR, they ain't marked, if you plug it into the wrong one = no sound)
Plug the existing speaker cable/plug into the jack of your new attenuator.
Test it

If you don't get any sound, turn it off.
You may get some smell like burning fish oil from a coating on the resistance element, that should quit after a while. If it smokes, turn the master volume down.